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Birds
Many different species of birds are kept as pets but it is a sad fact that many of them die prematurely due to poor housing and lack of nutrition. Just making a few changes in your birds environment can make his life much more interesting and ultimately, he will live a long a healthy life.
HOUSING
The best cage for any bird is the largest that you can afford. For smaller species, pay careful attention to bar spacing. Avoid circular cages at all costs, as they create a stressful environment for any bird.
PERCHES
Most perches come with plastic removeable ribbed perches - throw these away!
All birds from tiny Canaries and Finches to the large Macaws benefit greatly from having a wide variety of diameters and textures of perches that help to keep the feet in good condition. In the wild, a bird is constantly using its feet, in caged birds, many problems occur due to lack of exercise and the feet become permanently damaged. Sandpaper covered perches do little to keep nails trim, and are much more likely to irritate the sensitive skin on the underside of the feet and cause irritation and pain.
There are many types of different perches, that come in all sizes, suitable for all species of birds.
Polly/Sand Perches: these should be placed at the highest point in the cage, for the bird to roost on, as the bird sleeps, it will gently rock and this helps to keep the nails trim.
Manzanita: A South American hardwood, ideal as it comes in multi-branch form, providing slender twigs as well as thicker branches.
Cholla: Holey wood, good for hiding treats in these hollow branches, helping to create an enriched environment.
Filled Cholla: Same as above, but filled with a clay substance that birds enjoy chewing/eating.
Java: Another hardwood made from Coffee trees.
Cotton rope/Sisal/Hemp: All provide different textures ans exercise for feet/beaks.
Cactus Wood: Another variation on the above.
Natural branches from your garden are another excellent way to keep your bird occupied, safe woods to use are Apple/Pear/Willow, avoid using Plum as his wood is toxic to birds. Make sure the branches you intend to use are free from pesticides and wash thoroughly in hand-hot water prior to use. Leave on any bark/leaves.
TOYS
Plastic/acrylic toys may look colourful, but they provide little active stimulation for the caged bird. Wooden/rope toys are relished by most birds, as they can be chewed and pulled apart. Bird/Parrot toys can be expensive, so why not make some of your own toys, everyday items can be made into fun, stimulating toys for birds of all sizes. A natural washing line rope from B&Q for around £3 can be pleated and hung in the cage, treats can be fitted into it and the bird will have many happy hours 'preening' and playing. Cleaned fircones, toilet roll cardboard, plastic milk bottle tops can all make play interesting. 'Pound' shops are great places to buy baby rattles, bells etc that are safe for children, and provide hours of fun for birds.
Try to change toys and perches around on a regular basis to keep your bird interested and stimulated.
Always be aware of long pieces of cord or chain, as these can be dangerous. Regularly check toys for any sign of wear or damage.
FEEDING
All birds should be offered a wide and varied diet. Avian nutrition has come along way and it is no longer acceptable to offer any caged bird purely a seed diet.
Seed: Specific seed mixes are generally available for all different types of small birds/parrots. Whenever possible choose to buy seeds in sealed packets/containers rather than buying loose from the local pet shop , in loose open mixes, there is a chance of rodent/insect soiling, as well as the problem with mould on seeds due to a damp environment.
As a rule of thumb, seed should only be about 65% of the birds total diet. In Parrot mixes, ideally the mix should contain less than 50% black striped sunflowers/peanuts, as they are extremely high in fat, and in time will cause permanent damage and ultimately will shorten your birds life.
Many Birdkeepers all over the world are choosing complete diets eg Kaytee/Pretty Bird/Harrisons. Whilst these diets provide a complete nutritional package, they offer little excitement/stimulation. Birds in the wild spend a large percentage of their day foraging and hunting for food, cracking seeds and having to 'work' for every meal.
Soak mixes: These mixes are available from all good parrot shops and many contain exotic fruits/pulses as well as veg and added vitamins and minerals.The mix should be soaked in cold water for 12 hours, rinsed thoroughly and served.
Germination/sprouted seeds: These mixes should be soaked again in cold water, being rinsed at regular 12 hour intervals. After 24 hours, they should be placed in a shallow dish on damp kitchen roll and put in a warm dark cupboard to allow the sprouting process to begin. Again, the sprouts should be thoroughly washed before giving to the bird.
Millet: greatly enjoyed by many of the smaller birds, limit to 1-2 per week for smaller birds.
Fruit/Veg: Most leafy green veg (not cabbage/iceberg lettuce/round lettuce) Romaine lettuce, fresh spinnach leaves, raw peppers, raw chillis, apple, orange (skin on), pear, grapes(seedless), pmmegranite(in skin), kiwi(in skin), figs, passionfruit, carrots, broccoli,fresh peas(not in pod), sugar snap peas, mangetout, garlic, safe varieties of herbs/flowers.
Nuts: Nuts are a healthy part of a birds diet..in moderation, an African Grey sized bird should only have 1 walnut and 2 moneky nuts per day. Almonds, pecan, brazil nuts, hazelnuts etc are also safe..always crack the nuts slightly to check there is no mould present.
Human foods: Again, fine in moderation, most birds will enjoy a corner of toast or a piece of sweet/baked potato but any foods offered must be free of salt/pepper/sugar etc.
For additional protein, poached white fish or for larger birds a chicken thigh bone or tuna in spring water are a relished treat.
Unsafe foods: Crisps, salted nuts, chocolate, avocado, any fizzy drinks, tea and coffee.
POINTS TO REMEMBER
* Never keep your bird in the kitchen, the fumes that are released from Teflon coatings are fatal.
* Its worth remembering that most irons produce Teflon fumes also.
* Any airborne sprays ie furniture polish, air freshners and Febreeze are all harmful.
* Plug in air fresheners/scented candles/incense sticks are not advised.
* Birds NEED to fly, every bird regardless of size should be given the chance to fly daily.
* Birds need stimulation and company, denied of this they can become mutilators/pluckers.
* Most birds benefit from having a friend of their own kind. They need this interaction/closeness if you are not home during the day.
If you are looking for a bird, please be very careful. There are many wild caught birds currently on the market right now. These birds don't and very rarely make good pets as, due to the trauma they have endured, they are nervous and unhandleable. Sadly too often, these birds are ill and do not live long. Be very wary of adverts in the local paper offering young African Greys for around the £200 mark, with free delivery
HOUSING
The best cage for any bird is the largest that you can afford. For smaller species, pay careful attention to bar spacing. Avoid circular cages at all costs, as they create a stressful environment for any bird.
PERCHES
Most perches come with plastic removeable ribbed perches - throw these away!
All birds from tiny Canaries and Finches to the large Macaws benefit greatly from having a wide variety of diameters and textures of perches that help to keep the feet in good condition. In the wild, a bird is constantly using its feet, in caged birds, many problems occur due to lack of exercise and the feet become permanently damaged. Sandpaper covered perches do little to keep nails trim, and are much more likely to irritate the sensitive skin on the underside of the feet and cause irritation and pain.
There are many types of different perches, that come in all sizes, suitable for all species of birds.
Polly/Sand Perches: these should be placed at the highest point in the cage, for the bird to roost on, as the bird sleeps, it will gently rock and this helps to keep the nails trim.
Manzanita: A South American hardwood, ideal as it comes in multi-branch form, providing slender twigs as well as thicker branches.
Cholla: Holey wood, good for hiding treats in these hollow branches, helping to create an enriched environment.
Filled Cholla: Same as above, but filled with a clay substance that birds enjoy chewing/eating.
Java: Another hardwood made from Coffee trees.
Cotton rope/Sisal/Hemp: All provide different textures ans exercise for feet/beaks.
Cactus Wood: Another variation on the above.
Natural branches from your garden are another excellent way to keep your bird occupied, safe woods to use are Apple/Pear/Willow, avoid using Plum as his wood is toxic to birds. Make sure the branches you intend to use are free from pesticides and wash thoroughly in hand-hot water prior to use. Leave on any bark/leaves.
TOYS
Plastic/acrylic toys may look colourful, but they provide little active stimulation for the caged bird. Wooden/rope toys are relished by most birds, as they can be chewed and pulled apart. Bird/Parrot toys can be expensive, so why not make some of your own toys, everyday items can be made into fun, stimulating toys for birds of all sizes. A natural washing line rope from B&Q for around £3 can be pleated and hung in the cage, treats can be fitted into it and the bird will have many happy hours 'preening' and playing. Cleaned fircones, toilet roll cardboard, plastic milk bottle tops can all make play interesting. 'Pound' shops are great places to buy baby rattles, bells etc that are safe for children, and provide hours of fun for birds.
Try to change toys and perches around on a regular basis to keep your bird interested and stimulated.
Always be aware of long pieces of cord or chain, as these can be dangerous. Regularly check toys for any sign of wear or damage.
FEEDING
All birds should be offered a wide and varied diet. Avian nutrition has come along way and it is no longer acceptable to offer any caged bird purely a seed diet.
Seed: Specific seed mixes are generally available for all different types of small birds/parrots. Whenever possible choose to buy seeds in sealed packets/containers rather than buying loose from the local pet shop , in loose open mixes, there is a chance of rodent/insect soiling, as well as the problem with mould on seeds due to a damp environment.
As a rule of thumb, seed should only be about 65% of the birds total diet. In Parrot mixes, ideally the mix should contain less than 50% black striped sunflowers/peanuts, as they are extremely high in fat, and in time will cause permanent damage and ultimately will shorten your birds life.
Many Birdkeepers all over the world are choosing complete diets eg Kaytee/Pretty Bird/Harrisons. Whilst these diets provide a complete nutritional package, they offer little excitement/stimulation. Birds in the wild spend a large percentage of their day foraging and hunting for food, cracking seeds and having to 'work' for every meal.
Soak mixes: These mixes are available from all good parrot shops and many contain exotic fruits/pulses as well as veg and added vitamins and minerals.The mix should be soaked in cold water for 12 hours, rinsed thoroughly and served.
Germination/sprouted seeds: These mixes should be soaked again in cold water, being rinsed at regular 12 hour intervals. After 24 hours, they should be placed in a shallow dish on damp kitchen roll and put in a warm dark cupboard to allow the sprouting process to begin. Again, the sprouts should be thoroughly washed before giving to the bird.
Millet: greatly enjoyed by many of the smaller birds, limit to 1-2 per week for smaller birds.
Fruit/Veg: Most leafy green veg (not cabbage/iceberg lettuce/round lettuce) Romaine lettuce, fresh spinnach leaves, raw peppers, raw chillis, apple, orange (skin on), pear, grapes(seedless), pmmegranite(in skin), kiwi(in skin), figs, passionfruit, carrots, broccoli,fresh peas(not in pod), sugar snap peas, mangetout, garlic, safe varieties of herbs/flowers.
Nuts: Nuts are a healthy part of a birds diet..in moderation, an African Grey sized bird should only have 1 walnut and 2 moneky nuts per day. Almonds, pecan, brazil nuts, hazelnuts etc are also safe..always crack the nuts slightly to check there is no mould present.
Human foods: Again, fine in moderation, most birds will enjoy a corner of toast or a piece of sweet/baked potato but any foods offered must be free of salt/pepper/sugar etc.
For additional protein, poached white fish or for larger birds a chicken thigh bone or tuna in spring water are a relished treat.
Unsafe foods: Crisps, salted nuts, chocolate, avocado, any fizzy drinks, tea and coffee.
POINTS TO REMEMBER
* Never keep your bird in the kitchen, the fumes that are released from Teflon coatings are fatal.
* Its worth remembering that most irons produce Teflon fumes also.
* Any airborne sprays ie furniture polish, air freshners and Febreeze are all harmful.
* Plug in air fresheners/scented candles/incense sticks are not advised.
* Birds NEED to fly, every bird regardless of size should be given the chance to fly daily.
* Birds need stimulation and company, denied of this they can become mutilators/pluckers.
* Most birds benefit from having a friend of their own kind. They need this interaction/closeness if you are not home during the day.
If you are looking for a bird, please be very careful. There are many wild caught birds currently on the market right now. These birds don't and very rarely make good pets as, due to the trauma they have endured, they are nervous and unhandleable. Sadly too often, these birds are ill and do not live long. Be very wary of adverts in the local paper offering young African Greys for around the £200 mark, with free delivery
From the tiny Finch to the intelligent African Grey, from the popular Budgie to the majestic, rare Hyacinth Macaw, these 'breeds' all come under the banner of 'Birds'. But unlike dogs and cats, they all have very different feeding, housing and care requirements.